Geezer, Ric, and MPN, great inputs from all. I knew I'd find some helpful, knowledgeable Ricmeisters out there. This definitely gives me several options to try until I achieve nirvana! Isn't it funny how we seem to go through equipment searching for that elusive "perfection"?! My wife thinks I'm crazy, but I'm always buying, selling, or searching for something. Sure is fun, though.

I've got a real good amp rig right now. It's an E/V power amp; SWR Grand Prix preamp; Korg rack tuner; power conditioner; and a Bag End BX-410 cabinet. Super powerful and clean sound. Now once I get that E string worked out, I should be set for awhile. (Yeah, right...)

Check the depth of the string in the nut. This is often overlooked in even the best setups. If your nut is cut too high, you could get an uneven volume response on your E string., or other strings for that matter.

A properly cut nut is essential in the overall setup of your bass, and is, a very personal (according to playing style) thing. In my opinion, it can make a decent sounding bass, an exceptional sounding bass.

Just my opinion though.

Yah, but doesn't the whole idea of making them crazy while they're thinking you're crazy make it all worthwhile ! ! !

Amen, MPN! As for the nut (no, not my wife, the nut on the bass), I actually thought that the nut is cut too deep. The strings are virtually "submerged" below the top of the nut. You techs/luthiers can correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that the strings should be about 1/2 resting in the nut grooves, and about 1/2 above the top of the nut. Regardless, the E is definitely not sitting too high in the nut groove.

I myself prefer to surface a nut's crown after regulating the string action at the nut, so the grove is deep enough to securely halter the strings so they don't pop out during aggressive playing styles, but not too deep or NARROW as to dampen the strings from resonating. If you think about it; the string's business end of lateral assult is at the bridge; and how many times have you seen guide slots in a bridge cut any deeper than to halter the strings from poping out. Depending on the strings downbearing force determined by head stock set-back angle and machine head arrangement, about about 1/2 of the string should be captured in the nut slots, with larger diameter (lower tension) strings maybe requiring a somewhat deeper slot. The nut's slot width should always be taken into consideration, as the radius of the bottom of the slot is dependent on the slot width in relationship to the string. I always shoot for the slot radius bias to be a little on the + side to produce a pure tonal quality and sustain. You should always factor-in tension and composition of the strings relating to how freely they resonate, so they don't buzz in the slot. Remember . . . You CAN'T replace the TOO MUCH material you took off, so don't get hasty. Remove a little at a time, living by the philosophy of "quit while you're ahead". Keep in mind that im referring to a CUSTOMIZED application to attempt to enhance open-string sustain and tonal quality, not a factory setting to accomodate the use of a broad varity of strings . . .

I had my first rehearsal this weekend with my new 4003 and I found the exact opposite...the volume was pretty much the same using the neck pup, but the G string was very soft using the bridge pup. I'm gonna raise the treble side of the bridge pup and maybe raise both sides of the neck pup a little.

Hmm. That is interesting. My A, D, & G's are very punchy. What kind of strings do you use. I'm sure it's a "beat-to-death" subject, but since I'm relatively new, I haven't seen any feedback of flatwounds versus round. Somebody said they really like the DR half-rounds, which does make sense. My guess is that the flats would sound great in the studio or maybe for blues, but might not cut through enough for rock.

Did raising your treble-side pickups do the trick lanztek?

Is your E string weak on both pickups and at any certain frets/notes ?

I hope I don't stir up any trouble here but when for the short amount of time I had my 4003MB (as I'm still waiting for a replacement 4003MB) I notice exactly the same thing about the E-string, it had a weird muddy overtone especially when I would fret down on the 1st 2nd & 3rd fret, it was like this weird overtone and muddyness going on, in my eyes I think a bass should sound good acoustically before you even plug it into a amp, and my amp set up is a Demeter HBP-1 bass preamp & a stewart audio 1.6 power amp.
I called Neeley guitars repairs in California, because somebody highly recommended them here on the Rickenbacker fourm and I explain the situation to the dude, because after all it was a brand new bass, he told me that the truss rod could be to tight and the neck be to straight, he told me that the neck does need a slight bow to it.
I myself do understand that guitars and basses need to have alittle bow in the neck, but on the other hand Mr. Hall say's Rickenbacker bass are designed to have the neck perfectly straight, so I'm not sure what to do here or even if that is the problem.
I don't get my other 4003MB til this Friday the 30th, and I'll check this bass, but if the same problem occurs, if Mr. Hall has any helpful inputs on this issue please let me know, after all Mr. Hall know more about how these basses tick anyways.
FISH

What I've actually said is that the factory spec is dead straight and you may add relief as necessary to accomodate your particular choice of string and playing style.

Consider that the design and construction of the RIC neck is a little different than other guitars and therefore the experience you have with other brands may not be applicable.