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blap
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:01 am |
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:05 am Posts: 12
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cassius987
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:20 am |
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:33 am Posts: 3403 Location: Denver
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That's pretty much the amount of lift I have seen on other C64s with that tailpiece (not the C64S with 5 screws). I don't think it's doing you any harm at this point and if the bass is a few years old it's probably stable. If it bothers you I'd go to a 5-screw tailpiece; there are probably people who will do a direct swap with you for the 3-screw even though it is bent.
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blap
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:42 am |
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:05 am Posts: 12
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ok I understand about getting the 5 screw t/p but it also seems the t/p is slanted to the e & a string side ( pulling up on that side) I just want to get this right
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JohnHall
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 12:29 pm |
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 1:00 pm Posts: 4038 Location: Santa Ana, CA
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It seems like a real starting point would be to install a genuine tailpiece/bridge assembly first. As has been pointed out to you, genuine product is die cast, not sheet metal.
If it says your photo is invalid, it really must be, as Smokie here posts just fine.
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cassius987
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 12:48 pm |
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:33 am Posts: 3403 Location: Denver
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Yeah, John Hall is right, if your tailpiece really is sheet metal like you said then you need to get rid of that thing ASAP.
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blap
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 1:33 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:05 am Posts: 12
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after a closer look it is cast my worry is the way it pulls up on the lower two strings side of the t/p it also took a while to figure out a way to post the pics because you can't post pics off your own computer the pics had to be off an on line host http://www.flickr.com/photos/47006519@N0/
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JohnHall
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 1:41 pm |
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 1:00 pm Posts: 4038 Location: Santa Ana, CA
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blap wrote: after a closer look it is cast my worry is the way it pulls up on the lower two strings side of the t/p Ah, well, glad that's sorted out at least. blap wrote: it also took a while to figure out a way to post the pics because you can't post pics off your own computer the pics had to be off an on line host http://www.flickr.com/photos/47006519@N0/Not so. Smokie's photo was just there on my desktop. Just browse to your file in the upload attachment section, add the file, let it upload, and select the inline option if you want it in the body of the post.
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Rickenbrother
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:08 pm |
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Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 1:00 pm Posts: 2592 Location: The Rickenroom
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cassius987 wrote: Yeah, John Hall is right, if your tailpiece really is sheet metal like you said then you need to get rid of that thing ASAP. I agree also, I'll trade blap a Mexican made Fender Precision for his piece of junk.
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File comment: Cheyenne here is wondering what the fuss is all about.

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_________________ Throw that piece of firewood where it belongs and get yourself a Rickenbacker!
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JohnHall
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:00 pm |
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 1:00 pm Posts: 4038 Location: Santa Ana, CA
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blap wrote: after a closer look it is cast my worry is the way it pulls up on the lower two strings side of the t/p Generally, when you have asymmetrical lift like this, it suggests the string gauging is not within the recommended range for the instrument or hasn't been in the past.
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aceonbass
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Post subject: Re: 4001c64 problems Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:49 pm |
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2005 1:00 pm Posts: 924 Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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I have a 2010 4003. In the desire for the vintage "V68" look, I added, among other things, a C64 tailpiece. As expected, it began to lift (about 2MM) with the stock strings, so I added the two screws at the rear (ala 7-screw tailpiece) and then put on a set of RotoSound 66's. The bass sounds great and has ZERO tail lift now. Rather than spend $185.00 on a new 5 screw tailpiece. or $125.00 on the after market part that some think is so awesome (it's NOT), just add the two screws. It doesn't alter the factory look of the bass, solves the problem, and increases sustain. To say that 1/8" of lift is okay is ridiculous. If you're a player, fix it. If you're a collector, then put it with the other 10 or 15 you have. If you're close to me, I can fix it. Your tech sounds clueless to me as the neck adjustment is independent of the tailpiece lift, and the two-piece 2010 necks are the best, most stable yet.
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